Showing posts with label cover pump. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cover pump. Show all posts

February 5, 2014

Is your Pool and or Spa cover secure?


www.rickrobinsonhomes.com
Is your Pool and or Spa cover secure?


I just wanted to write a quick blog to remind all of my readers that are anywhere near the east coast to check on there covers to be sure they are secure with the winter conditions we have been having this year.

Check that their pool cover has been secured so it will not blow off or into the pool. For my spa customers be sure that your spa cover locks are latched and secure.

I do not recommend that you place any object on the spas as this can damage the covers. For pool safety covers be sure that the springs are tight if not shorten the straps to tighten the springs.

Another thing that is very important is to check on your spa during power outages then remember to reset the breaker to the spa after the power is restored.

Ensure that the spa is operational and the heat is working once the power comes back on. If the spa does not power up on it's own try turning the breaker off and then on again and this should get things going.



Until Next Time...

February 19, 2012

Why has my pool cover dropped so low? I hear this question every year and this year is no different.

Rick the Spa Guy
Why has my pool cover dropped so low? I hear this question every year and this year is no different.


So you have been good this winter with keeping your pool cover free of debris and pumped all the water off when needed, so why is there a problem? Let me start by saying good for you for keeping up with your pool in the winter, I know it is easy to forget about the outdoors when it is cold and snowing outside.


There could be a couple of different reasons for the water level in the pool dropping. First there could be a leak in the pool under the cover but that is not usually the problem. In most cases I have found it to be a small hole in the pool cover and when you drop your cover pump on the cover and start pumping the water off it is also pumping out the pool water, the pump does remove the water on the cover pretty quickly so usually when you finally get all the water off and shut the pump down it has only pumped out a small amount of water out of the pool, but when you repeat this process two or three times a winter you will notice the cover dropping further and further into the pool.


Another issue I came across was my customer was not pumping off the cover and the water kept building up as this happens the weight of the water on the cover displaces the water under the cover and then it rises and can flow out through the skimmer and or returns on an above ground pool and or leak in behind the liner and drain into the ground under the pool.


Both of these situations will make it appear that there is a leak in your pool when in deed there may not be. Be careful when you clean  sticks and leaves off the cover as you can put small holes in the vinyl cover and cause this problem. Always place the pump on the cover NEVER drop it on the cover. NEVER drag the cover pump off the cover as this can easily tear the cover. When you remove the cover in the spring be sure to hold the cover up to the sky and from underneath look for light shining through if you find holes either patch them or replace the cover.


A little care and maintenance will make your pool cover an easy chore in the spring.


Until Next Time...


November 5, 2011

It's time to drain and clean that spa

Rick the Spa Guy

Is it time to drain and clean that spa already? Heres some info that you may find useful.
  • When draining the spa be sure to turn the breakers off first so the pumps will not run with no water and burn up.
  • You may find that purchasing a small submersible pump much faster and easier than hooking a garden hose up to the gravity drain built into the spa plumbing. Little Giant makes a great pump that can drain your spa at a rate of 1200 gallons per hour. This pump will empty a 500 gallon spa in less than 30 min.
  • Use a NON-ABRASSIVE cleaner to wipe down the spa surface, so you won't scratch the acrylic. Be sure to rinse the spa thoroughly and get rid of the left over water before you refill the spa.
  • This is the time to soak those filter cartridges. Use a good filter cleaner so you can break down the organics that are stuck to the filter and you can not see them. If you soak your filters every time you drain your spa, you will have less trouble keeping the spa clean and clear. The paper filters are good for about 2 years if maintained properly.
  • If you have signs of mildew on the under side or the spa cover you can use a LIGHT bleach solution to clean the mold. Use 3 parts water to 1 part bleach. ALWAYS ADD BLEACH TO WATER NEVER WATER TO BLEACH. Use a soft brissle brush to scrub the cover and rinse off with fresh water.
  • Use a cover protectant after you clean the surface debris off like 303 protectant. This will put a new coat of UV protection on the vinyl and your cover will last much longer and look great.
  • When you start the refilling process, stick your garden hose down into the filter area first and let the spa fill from the plumbing lines fist. This will push any air that may be trapped in the pump out and allow the pumps to start up smoothly and not cavitate and become air locked.
  • Once you have a foot or so of water in the bottom of the spa add a metal remover to the water while it is filling. Once the spa is full you can turn the breaker back on and test for full operation.
  • Now test the water with a test kit and determine the level of Alkalinty and PH in the water. Always adjust the Alkalinity first, then the PH and finally the sanitizer. Wait for the spa temperature to get above 70 degrees before you add and Bromine/Chlorine as these products work more efficiently in warmer water.
Now you should be ready to start using your spa again. Remember the better care you take of your spa the less problems you will encounter and the less money you will have to spend on repair bills.


Until Next Time...

December 3, 2010

Spa Draining and Chemical Balance

Hello everyone, it's been a while. I have been busy building my new website, it takes a lot more work than I thought. I just wanted to touch base on the spas out there and remind every spa owner in cold weather that this is the time of year to drain and refill the spa before the really cold weather hits.

Remember to always allow the proper time to drain and refill the spa with no interruptions. If you empty a spa and have to leave for any reason in a very short period of time(hours) the plumbing lines that will still have water will freeze. So that being said, drain and refill your spa add metal remover to the water as it is filling to protect against any copper or iron that may be in the water and once the spa is full turn on the power and verify that all the pumps are working and you have good water flow.

Test the spa water with your test strips or test kit to verify where the Alkalinity and PH are at. Always adjust the Alkalinity first as this is a buffer for the PH, once this is good recheck the PH and make adjustments as necessary. Once these two are good check the Calcium Hardness of the water and adjust as needed. Wait for the water temp to get above 70 degrees before adding and Chlorine or Bromine as they react better in warmer water.

The proper levels are as follows: Alkalinity 90-140 ppm. PH 7.2-7.6 ppm. Calcium Hardness 250-500 ppm and Chlorine/Bromine 1.0-3.0 ppm. Now you can monitor the heat and start enjoying your spa once again.

Until Next Time....

September 5, 2010

What Pool Cover Choices Do I Have?

Last time we touched briefly on pool covers, for those of us in cold climates. Today I will go over the different types available.

First you have the solid water bag type cover. These covers have been around forever. These covers just lay over the water surface and are held down by water bags(vinyl bags that you fill with water to weigh down the edges of the cover) These covers, as long as there are no holes in them, keep the water looking good. The condition that you close the pool in is usually the way it looks when you uncover the pool in the spring. These are the dirtiest of all the covers to deal with in the spring.

Next you have the safety covers. these come in several forms, mesch(water passes through tiny holes in the cover) solid safety(water can not pass through)and solid safety with a drain panel(this type is 90% solid with a small square 2' x 2' panel to allow water to drain off the cover) All these type covers use a brass anchor system that has to be drilled into your existing deck and a spring is attached to the strapping of the cover then looped over the brass anchor for support. When installed properly these covers will allow someone to accidentally fall on the cover and they can crawl or stand up and walk off safely.

You will need to have a cover pump for most of these covers. Try not to let water build up on these covers as it will freeze and put undo stress on the cover and it's anchors.  Above ground covers are solid covers but instead of water bags they use a wire and winch system that go around the body of the pool to secure it. If you have a deck surrounding your above ground pool you can order a safety cover and use wooden deck anchors for support. A lot of manufacturers stock the basic shape and size covers, ex: 15x30, 16x32, 20x40 for free form or odd shapes the covers will have to be special ordered.

Until next time....