Identifying Spa Pump & Motor Replacements



www.RickRobinsonHomes.com

Identifying Spa Pump & Motor Replacements

Identifying a correct motor or pump replacement for a spa can be a tricky business: motors come in various sizes, pumps can have non-standard (up-rated/brake horsepower) ratings, sometimes the horsepower rating will be blank. Correct identification can make the difference between a profitable parts sale/service call and an expensive mess.

Let’s cover some of these terms:

• Up-rating – The practice of labeling a motor at higher than its traditional horsepower rating. For example changing a 2 HP pump into a 3 HP pump by only changing some of the ratings on the sticker.(See Brake/SPL ‘Special” Horsepower)
  
• Frame Size – Motors come in different sizes, we define these standard sizes by motor frame numbers. Unfortunately these motor manufactures do not agree on the terms they use for these frame sizes. For simplicity we refer to standard spa motors as 48Y and 56Y, but motor manufacturers call them all sorts of things. Some motor manufacturers even call the 48 frame motors 56 and vice versa.
  
• Brake/SPL “Special” Horsepower – These are commonly used for even bigger “up-ratings” a 2 HP pump can change to 4.5 HP or higher merely by changing the sticker on the motor. This rating is primarily based on the HP the motor attains less any load. True HP is the rating of the motor under load, this is the most important rating we as techs look for.
• 
  With horsepower ratings you cannot trust and frame sizes called all sorts of different things – what are you to do? The best weapon in our quest to identify a correct replacement is careful observation. We can identify frame size with a ruler and noting where the bolts are, we can get an idea for the horsepower by observing the amperage & voltage and find out one speed or two speed with the RPM rating. Everything we need to know is at hand you just need to know what to look for.
  
• Below is a checklist of things we use when identifying a pump. We don't always them all, but the more you know the more likely it is you will get it right.
  

• Pump ID checklist:

  • Amperage
  • Voltage
  • RPM rating
  • Pump brand
  • Pump model
  • Motor diameter
  • Impeller part number
  • Pump casing part numbers
  • Number of screws that hold the pump wet end together
  • Shape of the pump faceplate
  • Distance between motor thru-bolts and the head size.
  • Position of motor thru-bolts
  • Pump discharge location
  • Pump suction location
  • Outside thread diameter of suction and discharge

What do we do with all that?

Amperage and voltage – Normally the correct replacement will be the same voltage and near the same amperage.
RPM Rating – A 3450/1725 rating means you have a 2 speed motor, a single 3450 rating means you have a standard 1 speed motor, a single 1725 rating means you have circ pump motor, ratings of 2850 or 1425 mean you have a 50 hertz overseas motor.
Motor diameter – 48 frame motors are around 5-1/2” in diameter, 56 frame motors are around 6-3/8” diameter.
Distance between motor thru-bolts – 48 frame motors have thru-bolts about 3-5/8” apart, 56 frame motors have thru-bolts about 4-1/8” apart.
Thru-bolt head sizes – 48 frame motors usually have 1/4” heads on the thru-bolts, 56 frame motors usually have 5/16” heads.
Mounting Bolt Pattern – The distance between the bolts on the 48 frame bolt pattern = 3.65". The ditance between the bolts on the 56 frame = 4.1".
Pump brand/model – Replacing a pump with exactly the same pump will ensure a good fit. With most pump models only one motor size fits, eliminating a lot of the frame questions.
Pump case/impeller part numbers - These will usually lead to a particular pump model, and the impeller numbers to a model and horsepower. If there are no part numbers we can use basic shape and number of screws to try and narrow down to a pump model.
Outside thread diameters (where the plumbing hooks up) - The common thread sizes are 1.5” Buttress = 2-7/16” diameter, 2” Buttress = 3-1/16”diameter and 2.5” Buttress = 3-11/16” diameter.
Thru-bolt locations – most motor bolts that attach pump and motor are located at 11:00, 1:00, 5:00 and 7:00 O’clock. If yours are located elsewhere, ask before ordering a motor.
Pump discharge location – some pump discharges are located directly in-line with the motor shaft (they may be straight up or point left or right) we call these “center discharge” pumps, some pump discharges are set off to the right side of the wet end we call these “side discharge” pumps.
Pump suction location – most pumps have the suction is in the center of the wet end, 100% Drain pumps have them lowered to the bottom.
As you can see there are a number of things to consider when selecting spa pumps and their parts, if you follow the guidelines above you will find it is not hard to get it right.

This Article Supplied by Spa Parts Plus.

Until Next Time...

Is It A Bad Idea To Build A Spa Into A Deck?

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Is it a bad idea to build a spa into a deck?

I have been getting a lot of questions lately about building a deck around a  spa so I wanted to touch base on the pros and cons of this type of installation.

First off let me start off by saying I love the look of this type of installation but it does present some very difficult service issues.




Sundance spas

                        Lets go over the pros first:

• Very attractive appearance
• Easy access to get in/out of spa
• Does not block any views
• Seating can be incorporated around spa

                       Now lets talk Cons:

• It can be a trip hazard
• No service access to panels around spa
• May need a crane to install into place ($)
• If no access for service NO REPAIRS
• If spa is ever removed you have a big hole

Now I am not saying don't do it, all I am trying to do is give you some incite as to what the situation is. Most spas made today have a removable skirting all the way around the spa in the event of service the technician can remove this skirting and gain access to the inner part of the spa and find and repair the issue, if there is a deck around the spa then the skirting can not be removed and no repairs can be made unless the spa is removed out of the deck.

I recommend getting a designer to plan out this type of install. You can have pre-determined hatches made in the decking to allow a service professional to open these hatches and gain access to the skirting. In most cases they can blend these hatches into the decking so they are not noticeable and will not take away from the beauty of you new deck project.

If you have a pre existing deck you can also place the spa at an outer edge of your deck and remove a section of handrail and redesign it to incorporate the spa and you will get an appearance of a sunken spa and still have access to three sides of the skirting. This is what I usually recommend to my customers.

No matter what your choice is, a spa is a great family gathering spot, and even greater relaxation destination. So go out and get one NOW!

Until Next Time...

Equipotential Bonding of Hot Tubs

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Equipotential Bonding of Hot Tubs

In case some of my readers out there that live in New Jersey do not already know; NJ has officially adopted the 2011 NEC code on portable hot tubs.

NEC or National Electrical Code was recently changed in New Jersey.

For years now the code on the books required that all bodies of water ie; pools and hot tubs must have a bonding grid known as equipotential bonding within a 3 foot perimeter around said pool or hot tub and this was the cause of many consumer and electrician headaches, not to mention that if you had a pre-existing patio or deck that was made of brick or concrete this meant you had to remove a section of patio install the grid and then replace the patio. This in turn led a lot of my potential customers to forget about buying the hot tub.

As you can imagine I am completely ecstatic about this new adoption of the 2011 code, I have included a small portion of the new code for your reference.

Now you just need to keep a safe distance from all electrical supply outlets, your electrician will know all the codes for this as each town can be different slightly. My hopes is that this information will give my readers that are considering a new spa the information to better evaluate if a spa and the cost involved with one is for them or not.

I hope this information was helpful and that my readers will pass it on to all their friends and relatives.

Until Next Time…

2011 NEC Code (Partial)

i. Section 680.42(B), entitled "Bonding," shall be deleted and the following shall be inserted:

"680.42(B) Bonding. Bonding by metal-to-metal mounting on a common frame or base shall be permitted.

Exception No. 1: The metal bands or hoops used to secure wooden staves shall not be required to be bonded as required

in 680.26.

Exception No. 2: A listed self-contained spa or hot tub that meets all of the following conditions shall not be required to

have equipotential bonding of perimeter surfaces installed as required in 680.26(B)(2):

(1) Is installed in accordance with manufacturer's instructions on or above grade.

(2) The vertical measurement from all permanent perimeter surfaces within 30 horizontal inches (76 cm) of the spa to

the top rim of the spa is greater than 28 inches (71 cm).

Informational Note: For further information regarding the grounding and bonding requirements for self-contained spas

and hot tubs, see ANSI/UL 1563 - 2009, Standard for Electric Spas, Equipment Assemblies, and Associated Equipment."

Accessories are a must have for today's spa owner

Hello everyone, today I want to talk a little about  accessories that are a must have for today's spa owners.

One of the biggest obstacles I have found in selling spas; is for the height challenged people out there. The shorter people tend to shy away from a new spa due to the fact that they think they can not fit in the seats and feel they will drown when the spa is full so they are too scared to invest in a spa and are missing out on a great experience.

This brings me to my first recommendation of an accessory that I think is a must have for ALL spa owners. The spa BOOSTER SEAT, even if your family is all good , your future guests may need one, why not have one on hand.

This will give your guests or yourself the needed lift to feel comfortable and safe in the spa, you can move this around the spa to your favorite seat and enjoy all the benefits of spa ownership.

The next great accessory is a spa side table or handrail. Everyone goes out to their spa with toys in hand, (cell phone, I-pod, Drink, Food) and you need a dry safe place to put these down in a spot so you do not have to get out of the spa every time you want to get at them. There are many different ones out there. I have found the Spa Butler Jr. to be a nice unit as you can get this with a tray table and add towel racks to it and even a hand rail in the full size (Spa Butler) unit.

Butler Jr.

The Butler Jr, will screw to the cabinet of the spa and you can rotate the tray table  360 degrees so it can hang over the water edge or be rotated to close the cover when finished. The towel racks can be added to this unit to accommodate as many towels as you can fit.

Full size Butler

The full size Butler has a plate on the bottom of the unit that would need to be placed under the spa and then has a small bracket that you would screw into the spa cabinet. This plate is used as the counter balance due to the handrail that is part of the Butler, this handrail will make entering and exiting the spa a breeze. You will have to empty the spa to install this unit so wait until you are ready to do a water change to install this Butler. As with the Butler Jr you can add a tray table and towel racks to this unit. The handrail and accessories can rotate to accommodate the cover as well.

Lastly, if you are using a handrail you will need a set of steps. There are many different styles out there and many different price tags as well. You do not need to spend a fortune to have a safe durable set of steps. I have been selling a great step that is inexpensive and durable it can hold up to 700 lbs and comes in 8 different colors to match you spa cabinet, it is called the Dura Step by Leisure Concepts. It is 27" wide by 25.5 long and 15" high so it fits perfectly, and it will work with both square and round spas, all you do is flip the top step around if you need a round top step.

Dura Step II

So there you have it some of my favorite accessories for the spa. Anything that makes my life a little easier I am all for, and none of these items will break the bank and that is the most important.

Until Next Time....

3 Reasons for buying a Sundance spa

My 3 reasons for buying a Sundance spa, are simple.  The Sundance spa line up consists of the 880 series, Elite Series, the 780 series, and the 680 series. There are several models in each of these series. You should begin your search by knowing which features you value the most, mine are as follows:

Elite Constance

Performance- Sundance spas are one of'; if not the best running spas I have ever worked on. If you have back aches and sore muscles and are in need a great massage, then these spas will certainly do the trick. Each seat has a jet design that will give you the best overall massage of your entire body. Almost all of their spas have full rated 2.5 hp pumps, air controls to produce the air induced massage at each seat, a large light and all 780 and 880 series spas have LED color changing lights standard.

Reliability- The 780/880 series Sundance spas have a 5 year manufacturers warranty to give the owner some piece of mind that their spa will be running up to par for a full 5 years with little to no out of pocket expense. They use GE motors which have an excellent service record in the spa industry.

880 Optima

Ownership-  Each spa seat helps you maintain even weight distribution and correct posture when surrounded by jet-driven water.

Accu-Ssage Therapy Seat

Unique therapy massage station for neck, shoulders, and back

Targets specific acupressure points

Customized hydrotherapy

Mild to bold action, deep-tissue massage

These are just some of the great features of the Sundance spa line-up you should visit the website to get all the info. www.sundancespas.com 

So as you see my 3 reasons for buying a Sundance spa are that of a "PRO". Performance,Reliability,Ownership. I have sold these spas for over 5 years now and I can not say enough about them. For 2012 they have some new models so be on the look out for them as well. Always remember when buying a new spa, you get what you pay for, if you want the Mercedes don't go looking at the Chevrolet's. 

I could go on forever on these spas but I think you should go look for yourself.

Until Next Time...

Photos courtesy of Sundance Spas.

Thinking About Buying A Spa

Rick the Spa Guy

Hey Everyone, today I just wanted to talk a little about buying a spa and what to look for or not care too much about. I sell Sundance spas and Cal spas, they are both great spas but are very different in their design. Sundance has been around since 1979 and sells all over the world as does Cal Spa, buying from a manufacturer that has been around a long time is very important as you know they have some sort of track record out there and the hope is that they will be around for the long haul, both of these companies have that track record.

I hear all the time about people buying spas because of the jet count, "My spa has 100 jets", remember that with any spa the therapy value and power is only as good as the pumps that drive the water, so in a 100 jet spa that has 2 pumps (usually 2 to 2 1/2 horsepower) each pump will run through 50 jets on average, now a similar spa with 50 jets and the same pumps will run through 25 jets each, which spa do you think will give a better massage?

There are manufacturers out there that advertise 5 bhp or 6 bhp pumps, the BHP stands for Brake Horse Power this means that when the pump first starts up it runs at 5 or 6 hp but once it achieves it's run cycle it down grades to a 2 hp or 2 1/2 hp consistently, so do not be amazed at a spa that has 6 bhp in the title, while these are still great pumps they are no better than a spa that has a full rated 2 hp pumps in them.

Another thing to look at is the Acrylic coating of the spa, most manufacturers use acrylic for their surface, but some have ABS plastic in theirs, and these spas are not as strong in the cold climate areas as they can flex much easier than Acrylic ones which can lead to de-lamination of the surface or blistering. In the Sundance spa for example they use Rigid Bond construction which means they use acrylic, a bonding agent, and the fiberglass structure that all have the same tensile strength, so as the spa flexes in cold and heat it will flex at the same time and should not de-laminate. If the manufacturer uses material that has different tensile strength, then the fiberglass and the acrylic can flex at different temperatures and the POSSIBILITY of de-lamination exists this DOES NOT mean it will happen just that it could more easily.

These are just my opinions on spas and take it for what it's worth. Don't buy a spa because it says it has 6bhp pumps or 100 plus jets, you want to know that it is comfortable when you sit in the seats, and that you CAN fit in the spa. Tall people can not fit in some manufacturers seating as their legs are too long for the shell design, and you will have this spa for 10 plus years you will have to live with the decision you make, so be sure you like it. The foot well is another big issue to my customers this is where your feet go when you get say 4-5 people in the spa together there will be 8-10 legs that have to get along in the foot well. Some spas do not have very big foot wells, some are very large so take your time and decide what fits YOUR needs.

A spa is the best therapy out there for what hurts, as well as a great family gathering spot.

Until Next Time......Happy Shopping...

Spa Draining and Chemical Balance

Hello everyone, it's been a while. I have been busy building my new website, it takes a lot more work than I thought. I just wanted to touch base on the spas out there and remind every spa owner in cold weather that this is the time of year to drain and refill the spa before the really cold weather hits.

Remember to always allow the proper time to drain and refill the spa with no interruptions. If you empty a spa and have to leave for any reason in a very short period of time(hours) the plumbing lines that will still have water will freeze. So that being said, drain and refill your spa add metal remover to the water as it is filling to protect against any copper or iron that may be in the water and once the spa is full turn on the power and verify that all the pumps are working and you have good water flow.

Test the spa water with your test strips or test kit to verify where the Alkalinity and PH are at. Always adjust the Alkalinity first as this is a buffer for the PH, once this is good recheck the PH and make adjustments as necessary. Once these two are good check the Calcium Hardness of the water and adjust as needed. Wait for the water temp to get above 70 degrees before adding and Chlorine or Bromine as they react better in warmer water.

The proper levels are as follows: Alkalinity 90-140 ppm. PH 7.2-7.6 ppm. Calcium Hardness 250-500 ppm and Chlorine/Bromine 1.0-3.0 ppm. Now you can monitor the heat and start enjoying your spa once again.

Until Next Time....